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 Tomatoes prefer warm temperatures to germinate, around 70–80°F. You can use a heat mat under your pots or trays to maintain a consistent temperature. 

 Keep the soil consistently moist but not wet. You can mist the seeds to keep them moist, and use a humidity dome to retain moisture until the seeds start to sprout. When watering, water in the morning to help prevent disease and leaf burn. 

 Tomato seeds don't need light to germinate, but you can move them to a warm, bright location with sunlight or grow lights once they break the surface. Gradually expose seedlings to more sun and wind 

 Avoid large containers, which can overwhelm the roots with soil microorganisms. You can try small paper cups with holes punched in the bottom, or wash plastic module trays with warm, soapy water to remove old soil and salts. 

 Handle seedlings with care and avoid touching the main stem. You can rotate the plants if they lean in one direction 

 Tomato seeds don't need fertilizer to germinate, but you can lightly fertilize the soil around the plants every 10–14 days once they start setting fruit. 

 Tomato seeds do not need sun to germinate, but the extra warmth will help. They like bottom heat. More Watering: Continue to water every other day from the bottom. Keep the mix evenly moist, but not sopping wet, until seeds germinate. 

 Before planting, add a 2–3 inch layer of compost to the soil and till it in. Compost helps increase the organic matter in the soil. 

 Gypsum can help loosen compacted soil and add calcium, which can help prevent blossom end rot. Blossom end rot is a circular rot that can appear on the bottom of tomato fruit if the plant doesn't get enough calcium. 

 You can test your soil's pH at any time, but you might want to test it if you notice yellowing leaves, poor growth, or if you're starting a new garden. You can also determine your fertilizer and lime needs by testing the soil. 

 Mix a fertilizer that contains calcium into the soil when you prepare the planting holes. You can continue feeding the plants during the growing season as directed on the label. 

 Too much nitrogen can cause the plant to produce lots of leaves but little fruit. If your plant's leaves are purple, it might need more phosphorus, which is important for fruit production 

•  Choose a warm, sunny spot that's sheltered from the wind 
•  Dig holes that are about 1.5 ft deep 
•  Plant seedlings deeper than they were in their starting cups, and remove the bottom stems and leaves 

• Matured compost (should make at least half of the final product)

DRY LEAVES OR PELLETS

A VERY RICH SOURCE OF NITROGEN

  During the fruiting stage, you can reduce the amount of nitrogen in the NPK ratio to avoid promoting too much leaf growth. Too much nitrogen can lead to more leaves and fewer fruits. 

•  Tomato seeds don't need fertilizer to germinate, but you can lightly fertilize the soil around the plants every 10–14 days once they start setting fruit. 
•  For container-grown tomatoes, you can use a balanced fertilizer with a 1-1-1 ratio until the plants flower. Once they flower, you can switch to a fertilizer with more potassium. You can also use a fertilizer that's high in phosphorus, like 8-32-16 or 12-24-12, to help the plants grow larger fruits. 

 Tomato plants need three main nutrients from fertilizer—nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium 

 There are several staking methods, including single stake, double stake, and Florida weave. For example, in the Florida weave method, you can plant tomatoes in two rows that are about two feet apart and pound stakes between each plant. As the plants grow, you can weave string horizontally along the rows, sandwiching the plants between the string and winding it tightly around the posts. 

Start early

• It's easier to stake tomatoes when they are about a foot tall, so start staking early !!

 Tomato single staking is a simple, inexpensive method of keeping tomato plants upright in small spaces, like potted plants. To stake a tomato plant using the single stake method, you can: 

•  Stake the plant when it's about a foot tall.
•   Use a sturdy stake made of metal or wood that's 5 feet tall for determinate tomatoes and 8 feet tall for indeterminate tomatoes. 
•  Tie the stake to the vine using a tie of your choice. 
•  Re-tie the plant every six inches, about every 8 inches up the main trunk. 

  Double staking is a tomato staking method that involves placing two stakes on opposite sides of a tomato plant to provide extra support. The stakes are then tied to the plant stem with twine or jute as the plant grows. This method works well for heavy varieties of tomatoes, like heirlooms, that can weigh several pounds and easily break if they aren't supported as they grow. 

Here are some tips for double staking:

•  Space plants: Leave several feet between plants to allow for easy harvest

   Florida weave staking, also known as the basket weave method, is a way to support tomato plants with stakes and twine. It's a quick method that involves driving stakes between every other plant, rather than next to each plant, and then looping twine around the stakes to create a basket-like structure. The twine is placed at different heights as the plants grow, and the plants are tucked in between the strings. 

 Here are some tips for using the Florida weave method: 

• Use strong Nylon twine